Since glass blocks are measured in inches, convert your measurements to inches first. If you’re filling a window that’s 4 feet (1. 2 m) by 6 feet (1. 8 m), convert each side to inches first: 48 inches (120 cm) by 72 inches (180 cm) is 3,456 square inches (22,300 cm2). If you’re building a free-standing block wall, then it won’t have a defined frame in place. In this case, measure the height and length that you want the wall to be and mark these spots on the floor and wall. If you’re installing these blocks on a wall to make a window, make sure the wall can support the weight first. These blocks are much heavier than a normal window, so the wall needs to be strong enough. Ask a contractor to assess your wall strength if you aren’t sure.
If you’re filling a window that’s 4 feet (1. 2 m) by 6 feet (1. 8 m), convert each side to inches first. 48 inches (120 cm) by 72 inches (180 cm) is 3,456 square inches (22,300 cm2). 64 divided into 3,456 is 54, so you need 54 blocks for the project. The area of the blocks may not evenly divide into the work area. In this case, round down, since you can’t cut glass blocks. If you received a calculation of 35. 6 blocks, for example, use 35 blocks.
Different installation kits may come with different materials. Speak with a store employee and tell them what job you’re planning. Use their advice to pick the correct installation kit. If you can’t find complete installation kits, most of the materials are available separately. Get mortar designed for glass blocks, spacers, and PVC base strips along with the glass blocks.
If the glass blocks will be filling a square space, then cut 4 landing strips, 2 for the length and 2 for the height. If the blocks are free-standing, then cut 2, 1 for the base and 1 for the height. If you’re installing the blocks outdoors or in a wall, professionals recommend using wood for your base instead. Use a 1 in (2. 5 cm) by 6 in (15 cm) board and cut it to the length of the wall. Then screw it down to it provides a stable base. [5] X Research source Some landing strip kits have perforations measured to the length of standard blocks. Snap along these lines if your kits are designed this way.
The markings are usually every 1 foot (0. 30 m), but follow the guide marks on your kit. Some installation kits have screw plugs that go into the floor and wall before you drill the screws. Always follow the instructions provided on your installation kit.
The mortar packaging should indicate how many blocks the package will cover. You may need to buy more than 1 pack, depending on the size of the job. If you have an electric mixer, this will make the job much faster. For some installations, like a shower, professionals recommend using caulk instead of mortar. Always check with the instructions provided on the product you’re using.
If the installation area has 2 base corners, then you can start in either one. Start the installation right after mixing the mortar so it doesn’t harden before you’re done.
Scrape away the mortar that bleeds out when you push the block down.
If the blocks you’re using are a different size, distance the spacers the length of the block instead. If the spacers still show after you press the blocks together, touch up the area with a bit more mortar to cover them. Alternatively, you could seal the mortar with caulk when it’s cured. This will cover any spacers or other imperfections.
Don’t press so hard that the blocks are closer than 1⁄4 in (0. 64 cm) apart. Maintain that separation between all the blocks in this job. If you’re using glue or caulk to bond the blocks instead of mortar, then place a plastic strip between each block with glue on each side. These strips should come with an installation kit that uses glue.
Remember to scrape away excess mortar that comes out from between the blocks. It’s okay to have some leftover on the blocks, but a large glob of excess mortar will be difficult to clean later on.
The strips may be pre-cut, or you may have to cut them to the correct size. Cut them to the length of the wall plus 6 inches (15 cm) on each side to allow room for the screws. If the glass blacks are free-standing and aren’t enclosed by a wall on both sides, then extend the reinforcing strip until the end of the last block in the row. Some installation kits have different types of reinforcing strips that don’t screw to the wall. Instead, you’d spread glue or mortar on the strip and press it onto the blocks. Follow the directions provided for the correct reinforcement method.
This set time only makes the mortar strong enough for scrubbing. The mortar won’t reach it’s full strength until it’s set for several weeks. This job may take several hours, meaning that the first blocks you laid are dry enough for cleaning as soon as you complete installing the blocks.
Dip the sponge back into the bucket periodically to wash off excess mortar. Only use plain water at this point. The mortar is not dry enough to handle cleaning from solvents or other chemicals.
If the blocks are outside, cover them with plastic to prevent rain from getting on them. Different mortar may have different set times. Always check the instructions on the product you use for the specific dry time.
Remember to clean both sides of the installation.
