Do not use Negative Weight fabrics, heavy fabrics, taffeta, crinoline, or tulle as a lining. Negative weight fabrics will alter the form, and heavy fabrics will restrict movement and add bulk and weight.
You can find lining fabric at most fabric supply stores. If you’re lining a dress to add structure, you might end up cutting your lining with a different shape from the top layer, as you might need to include interfacing or boning. [3] X Expert Source Kpoene Kofi-BruceCouture Bridal Designer Expert Interview. 28 January 2021.
Transfer any pattern markings, but don’t include any extra material for kick pleats. When working without a pattern, trace the lining from the actual bodice, skirt, and sleeves. Add a 1⁄8 in (0. 32 cm) seam allowance to the neckline, shoulders, zipper opening, and armholes (sleeveless dress only).
Every pattern is a little bit different, but this will most likely include sewing the torso and skirt together and then combining them with the sleeves, if your dress has any. Any edge left unfinished on the original dress (neck, shoulders, and armhole) should remain raw on the lining, as well. Leave the zipper opening unfinished, too. If the dress has any kick pleat or slit, you should also leave those edges unfinished.
The zipper opening of the lining should match the zipper opening of the dress, if it has one. Pin the lining around the zipper to keep it in place.
Sewing the shoulders and neck first creates an anchor for your lining to attach to so that you can work with the rest of the dress. [10] X Expert Source Kpoene Kofi-BruceCouture Bridal Designer Expert Interview. 28 January 2021. For sleeveless dresses, you’ll need to follow the seam allowance according to the instructions of the original pattern. For dresses with sleeves, stitch the lining to the dress directly over the matched seams. Pull the sleeve lining through the sleeves and let it hang loosely.
Do not get too close to the bumps of the zipper while stitching the lining in place, or you could cause it to warp.
The bottom hem of the skirt should remain loose. You can also leave the outer edge of the sleeve loose, but if you would prefer secured sleeves, top stitch the outer edges of the sleeve together.
Even though the hem of the lining is loose, it shouldn’t bunch up or move around a ton since it will hang freely inside the skirt.
Finish the neckline, zipper opening, armhole, sleeve opening, and any skirt slits.
The only edge that should not match will be the lower hem, since the lining should be shorter than the original dress.
If the dress has a slit in the skirt, topstitch the lining to the dress around the slit opening. The sleeve openings can remain loose, or you can stitch them together.
You can hand stitch the lining to the zipper if you do not have a zipper foot with a fell stitch.
Since you attached the lining with the right side facing out, it will be soft and comfortable against your skin.
