If you’re planning on mounting the blinds outside of the window, measure the entire area you want the blinds to cover. They have to be a little longer than inside-mounted blinds to overlap the entire window. If you’re planning on covering multiple windows, take measurements for each one.
Canvas and decorative cotton are a few good choices for blinds. Stiffer fabric rolls up better. If you wish to use a softer material, layer it over something like lining fabric. Visit craft stores to see what kinds of fabrics they have available or look online to find different patterns. Craft stores also carry most of the other supplies you need.
Keep in mind that the length depends on how you plan on hanging the blind. Cut the blinds about 12 in (30 cm) longer if you’re going to attach them to rollers instead of flat headrails. Leave them about 2 in (5. 1 cm) wider than the window to account for the hem. Factor in an extra 2 in (5. 1 cm) to the length if you plan on making a top hem. Add another 1⁄2 in (1. 3 cm) if you’re going to staple the blind to a mounting board. For example, if you have a 72 in (180 cm)-long window, the fabric needs to be at least 74 in (190 cm) long to fit well on a blind headrail. Make it 84 in (210 cm) if you’re using a roller instead.
Remember that any creases and wrinkles could throw off your measurements. Make sure you iron them out if you notice any before you cut.
Make sure you’re working on the left and right sides of the blind. These hems go on the longer sides of the fabric.
You could use a sewing machine if you have one. Another option is to stick the fabric together with hemming tape if you don’t like sewing. If you’re using hemming tape, fold the fabric on top of it and iron the hem to secure it. Hemming tape isn’t as durable as sewn hems and can come undone in the wash.
You could also add another piece of hemming tape if you don’t wish to sew. If you’re making your own hanging mechanism, consider wrapping a piece of 1 in × 2 in (2. 5 cm × 5. 1 cm) wood in the hem. It needs to be as long as the blind is wide. Use craft glue to secure it.
You can use old blinds if you have them or get new ones. Try looking for some mini blinds that fit your window. Cheap ones are available at most hardware stores.
The glue dries quickly, so be sure to attach the headrail to the fabric right away. If you don’t have a good headrail, try using a piece of 1 in × 2 in (2. 5 cm × 5. 1 cm) wood that is as long as the fabric is wide. Wrap it up in the fabric to create another seam. Keep in mind that the fabric needs to be cut another 2 in (5. 1 cm) longer than normal for the additional hem. If you make your own headrail out of wood, attach it to the wall or a headrail board on the wall. Another option is to fit it inside the brackets of an open headrail, if possible.
The thicker cords running down the length of the blinds are pull cords. You don’t need to cut them, so separate them from the ladder cords.
Some blinds can have as many as 3 of these smaller ladder cords, so check your blinds thoroughly. Remove all of them.
Without the cap and bottom bar serving as an anchor, nothing holds the blinds in place. Keep in mind that they will slide right off if you lift the blinds at all.
For example, if your fabric is 70 in (180 cm) long, position 5 1 in (2. 5 cm)-wide slats 10 in (25 cm) from one another. Start from the bottom when adding slats. If you’re positioning slats 10 in (25 cm) apart, set the first slat 10 in (25 cm) above the bottom edge of the fabric.
If you glue the pull cords to the fabric, you won’t be able to roll up the blind later. Take care to avoid getting any glue on them.
The bottom bar gives the blind some weight so it’s easy to pull down and roll back up. It’s worth adding a piece of wood there if you don’t have one to repurpose from old blinds.
The way you mount the blinds may vary a little depending on whether they are inside or outside-mounted. For stability, screw the brackets to the support beams in the wall. Use a stud finder that beeps when it passes over the beams. If you need mounting brackets or screws, shop online or visit a hardware store.
Measure the length of the blind first if you need to in order to space the marks evenly. You could make room for an extra dowel if your blind is very long or remove one if it is short. You can leave extra space on the top of the blind. It doesn’t have to be the exact same size as the other spaces you measured since that part will be used to hang the blind.
You can adjust the size of the pockets as needed to fit the dowels you plan on using. A 2 in (5. 1 cm)-wide pocket is generally fine, although you could get the dowels ahead of time and adjust for them.
You could also stitch each strip to the fabric. It works better if you backed the fabric with lining since that prevents the stitching from showing on the front side of the blind. If you attached a liner to the back of the fabric, try turning the blind inside out. Secure the strips and dowels, then turn the blind inside-out to hide them.
If you’re not a big fan of sewing, you could glue wooden strips to the back of the blind. You don’t even need to iron on pockets if you don’t want them, although they are still useful for hiding the supports. Most craft stores sell dowels and the other supplies to finish the blinds. Check online if you can’t find what you need.
This installation is meant for outside-mounted blinds. For inside-mounts, attach a small wood board to the upper edge of the window frame if it will support it. Remember to attach the board to the support beams in the wall for stability. The weight of the blinds could cause it to fall off if it isn’t firmly anchored to the wall.
Another way to do this is by making a hem by rolling a board in the fabric. Glue it in place, then screw the board to the wall. You won’t need to add a separate board to hang the blind.
You could add more screws for extra stability if you think you will need them to support large or heavy blinds. Try spacing the screws out evenly, such as 10 in (25 cm) apart from one another.
Turn these eye screws so the heads are positioned horizontally. That means the openings face the top and bottom of the blind so you are able to run cords through them. Another option is to sew plastic rings onto the dowel pockets you made. If you hid the pockets inside the lining of the blind, you will need to add rings this way to string up the blinds.
Run all of the cords through the top eye screws and to the right. The cord on the left will go through all of the eye screws you have there. Let the cords hang from the side of the blind or install an extra eye screw beneath the headrail to hold them. The length of cord you need will depend on the length of your blinds and how long you want the pull cord to be. If you’re unsure, keep the cords long at first and cut away the excess later. You can buy replacement pull cords or a cord roll. Check online or at hardware stores.
When you need to reposition the blinds, take the pull cord out of the cleat. When you’re done, put the cord back to hold the blinds still.
