Don’t forget to purchase the appropriate brake fluid as well. You’ll need to fill it later. Again, when in doubt, do some research. The internet is filled with specific advice for each make, model, and even year of the car.
Manual: The cheapest, most basic option (usually under $100), these are perfect for most non-professional mechanics and hobbyists. Can even be borrowed or rented from many auto stores. Leverage Manual: Like manual, but require less time and force for each flair. If you restore vehicles frequently or want a complete overhaul of your lines, this may be worth the extra money. Usually several hundred dollars. Hydraulic: Makes quick, even flares, but is likely overkill unless your making multiple flare lines a day or need to save time (like an auto-mechanic might). Can get very expensive. [3] X Research source
In a pinch, you can use a hacksaw. If so, however, use only light pressure, focusing on cutting side-to-side instead of up and down. [4] X Research source
Most lines are flared on both ends, so make sure you add two fittings, pointing opposite directions, before beginning. [5] X Research source
You can do this free-handed if you don’t have a vice, but it is much easier with one.
These only need to be hand-tightened. [6] X Research source
Set the anvil next to your tube, loosen the clamp, and raise the tube to the same height as the “shoulders” of the anvil. Make sure the anvil is the same size as the tubing you’re using. The hole the tube is in should be marked with measurement (ie, 3/16") that needs to match the measurement found on the bottom of the anvil (3/16").
Once you have the right angle, tighten the yoke down so that it cannot move.
Don’t use excessive force here, or you could damage the flare. Slow, even force is all you’ll need.
